It's not a matter of what's on-hand in the pantry, what mom or grandma used, brand recognition or cost. There is a difference between natural and Dutch-process cocoa powder, and, it is rocket science. The word is "acidity". Those of the mindset the two can be used interchangeably, babbling on about it being mostly a matter of preference (I have witnessed it said many times), are contributing to recipe failure -- which is the number one reason why some folks hate to bake.
The cocoa bean is a dried, fatty seed found inside a 10"-12" cocoa pod, and, each pod is home to 30-50 beans. Once the beans are roasted and shelled, a product called cocoa nibs remain. The nibs get milled to produce cocoa liquor, which gets pressed to extract the cocoa butter, which leaves a solid called a cocoa press cake. Cocoa powder is the powder created from pulverizing the press cake.
All chocolate is naturally acidic. Until the mid-1800's there was only one type of cocoa powder: Natural cocoa powder. It has a pH (acidity level) between 5 and 6, which gives it its sharp, slightly-bitter edge (and light brown color). Then, along came Coenraad Johannes van Houten, a Dutch chocolate-maker, who discovered a way to process the cocoa nibs to neutralize the acid. Dutch-process cocoa powder is washed with a potassium carbonate solution, which neutralizes the pH (the acid) to 7, which gives it a smooth, mellow taste (and dark brown color).
Natural = predominantly baking powder. Dutched = predominantly baking soda.
Because natural cocoa powder (like Hershey's) is acidic and Dutch-process (or "Dutched") cocoa had its acid removed, it's seriously important to follow the recipe. Typically, recipes calling for natural cocoa powder are leavened predominantly by baking soda, while recipes calling for Dutch process, which doesn't react well with an alkaline leavener like baking soda, rely heavily on baking powder.
When a recipe specifies both baking powder and baking soda, know it has been written in a manner that the cocoa's acidity and the natural acids in the ingredients list strike a balance.
Go natural -- Must Have Chocolate Mayonnaise Cake:
Go Dutched -- Chocolate, Buttermilk & Sour Cream Pound Cake:
"We are all in this food world together." ~ Melanie Preschutti
(Recipe, Commentary and Photos courtesy of Melanie's Kitchen/Copyright 2019)
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